Free Wool Soaker Pattern For Felting

This pattern is only functional if you plan on felting, or shrinking, the soaker after knitting it. Felting gives a denser, less stretchy, fabric. Ribbing does not keeps its elasticity when felting, so this pattern has structural changes to make it come out right after shrinking. If you are looking for a soaker pattern to use without felting, I suggest Punk Knitters. I will be adding pictures soon.

Abbreviation Key
 k  knit
 p  purl
 tog  together
 SKP  slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knit st
 Rnd  round (like a row, but circular)
 *  Repeat the instructions inside the asterisk
 kb  knit into the stitch below the next stitch, do not drop the next stitch!
 pb  purl into the stitch below the next stitch, do not drop the next stitch!

The last two stitches are also known as a blind increase

A stitch count is included in {} brackets at the end of any row or round where a stitch has been made or lost.

Supplies Needed:

  • 120g worsted weight 100% Wool
  • 16in size 6 or 7 “knitting in the round” needles, or set of double point needles
  • set of 4 size 2 or 3 double point needles
  • yarn needle
  • ¾ inch elastic

    • Waistband:

  • Cast-on 100st and connect for knitting in the round
  • Rnd 1-8: *k1*
  • Rnd 9: *p1* (this is the turning round)
  • Rnd 10, 11: *k1* (at this point, temporarily discontinue knitting in the round and start knitting back and forth to create an opening for the elastic—do not switch needles yet!)
  • Row 12,14, 16: *p1*
  • Row 13, 15: *k1* (After row 16, start knitting in the round again. You are now working from the back of the fabric—what will become to inside of the casing for elastic.)
  • Rnd 17: *p1*
    • Fold the fabric forward in half at the turning row, so that the cast-on stitches are even with and in front of the needle. Make sure the stitches line up, so that your waistband/casing is not crooked. Sometimes it is easier to use pins to keep the stitches lined up.
  • Rnd 18: *pick up cast-on stitch, p2tog* (if you want a soaker in stocking stitch, you can k2tog instead of p2tog.)

    • Body/Tube

  • Rnd 19-43 odd: *k1*
  • Rnd 20-42 even: *p1*
  • Rnd 44: p78, *pb, p4*, pb, p2{106}

    • Put the last 30 stitches (including the six stitches you just made) onto a stitch holder and prepare for knitting flat. You can transfer the stitches to 2 flat needles, or continue to use the knitting in the round needle—just don’t knit around.

    Crotch

  • Row 1: *k1* {76}
  • Row 2-60 even: p2, *k1*, p2
  • Row 3: k2, SKP, k68, k2tog, k2 {74}
  • Row 5: k2, SKP, k66, k2tog, k2 {72}
  • Row 7: k2, SKP, k64, k2tog, k2 {70}
  • Row 9: k2, SKP, k4, kb, k54, kb, k4, k2tog, k2 {70}
  • Row 11: k2, SKP, k62, k2tog, k2 {68}
  • Row 13: k2, SKP, k60, k2tog, k2 {66}
  • Row 15: k2, SKP, k58, k2tog, k2 {64}
  • Row 17: k2, SKP, k56, k2tog, k2 {62}
  • Row 19: k2, SKP, k4, kb, k46, kb, k4, k2tog, k2 {62}
  • Row 21: k2, SKP, k56, k2tog, k2 {60}
  • Row 23: k2, SKP, k5, *kb, k6*, kb, k5, k2tog, k2 {66}
  • Row 25: k2, SKP, k8, *kb, k6*, kb, k8, k2tog, k2 {72}
  • Row 27: k2, SKP, k11, *kb, k6*, kb, k11, k2tog, k2 {78}
  • Row 29: k2, SKP, k22, SKP, k22, k2tog, k22, k2tog, k2 {74}
  • Row 31: k2, SKP, k20, SKP, k22, k2tog, k20, k2tog, k2 {70}
  • Row 33: k2, SKP, k18, SKP, k22, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k2 {66}
  • Row 35: k2, SKP, k16, SKP, k22, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k2 {62}
  • Row 37: k2, SKP, k14, SKP, k22, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k2 {58}
  • Row 39: k2, SKP, k12, SKP, k22, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k2 {54}
  • Row 41: k2, SKP, k10, SKP, k22, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k2 {50}
  • Row 43: k2, SKP, k8, SKP, k22, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k2 {46}
  • Row 45: k2, SKP, k6, SKP, k22, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2 {42}
  • Row 47: k2, SKP, k4, SKP, k22, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2 {38}
  • Row 49: k2, SKP, k30, k2tog, k2 {36}
  • Row 51: k2, SKP, k28, k2tog, k2 {34}
  • Row 53: k2, SKP, k26, k2tog, k2 {32}
  • Row 55: k2, SKP, k24, k2tog, k2 {30}
  • Row 57, 59: *k1*

    • Graft the 30 stitches on the needle to the 30 stitches on the stitch holder. Good pictoral instructions on grafting are described as the Kitchener Stitch.

    Leg Openings

    Now pick up 60 stitches around one of the leg openings with the set of size 2 or 3 double point needles. Since ribbing does not look the same after felting, I suggest just knitting around 7-10 times and then casting off.

    Felting Your New Wool Soaker

    Immerse the soaker in hot or boiling water for 10-45 minutes. If you felt on the stove, be sure to keep the soaker of the bottom of the pan so that it does not burn. Press dry on a towel, then put in dryer on "high" heat for a few minutes. Take out. Continue this process until the soaker is slightly larger than the size you desire. Air dry. Sometimes the wool can continue to shrink a little after taking it out of the dryer--this is why I suggest leaving the soaker slightly larger than desired. You can minimize this extra shrinking by setting the dryer to "low" heat, but the felting will take longer.